Short: Repairs, Repairs again, Malawi border, Livingstonia, Brazilian biker, Arrive at Nkatha Bay
Long: While at breakfast we asked the hotel manager if he knew of a decent mechanic in the area, and literally five minutes later a man arrived. He jumped into the car and we drove to his shop which was only minutes from the hotel. The shop area was a debris field of rusting vehicles and parts, and we were, naturally, very skeptical. Our only consolation was that this garage looked quite similar to every other garage we had seen in east Africa. We were not disappointed with the service. One hour later the differential had been removed, re-sealed, and re-filled with gear oil. The right rear brake plate was fastened with a new screw. While these repairs were being done, some of the other workers helped us wash the cash and clean the inside, which had become caked with dust. It was all surprisingly efficient and we paid $10 for all of the repairs and began driving back to town, but after ten meters we discovered a new noise. The left rear brake plate was also loose. We backed Betsy back into the shop and after a quick assessment the mechanic determined that the plate would have to be welded. They removed the tire and the plate and began welding. Taking advantage of the welder, we asked them if they might be able to also fix the clasp that snapped on our jerry can holder. We fully expected to go the rest of the trip without the holder, leaving the jerry cans in the car. However, after searching for properly sized wire, they were able to weld a new clasp into place. It is somewhat unbelievable, when compared to western vehicle maintenance fees, that we ended up paying $20 to re-seal, and re-fill, the differential, fix/weld two disc brake covers, weld a new jerry can clasp into place and get the car cleaned. We actually paid them more than they asked for, which prompted one of the workers to comment, “It’s like Christmas today”.
Long: While at breakfast we asked the hotel manager if he knew of a decent mechanic in the area, and literally five minutes later a man arrived. He jumped into the car and we drove to his shop which was only minutes from the hotel. The shop area was a debris field of rusting vehicles and parts, and we were, naturally, very skeptical. Our only consolation was that this garage looked quite similar to every other garage we had seen in east Africa. We were not disappointed with the service. One hour later the differential had been removed, re-sealed, and re-filled with gear oil. The right rear brake plate was fastened with a new screw. While these repairs were being done, some of the other workers helped us wash the cash and clean the inside, which had become caked with dust. It was all surprisingly efficient and we paid $10 for all of the repairs and began driving back to town, but after ten meters we discovered a new noise. The left rear brake plate was also loose. We backed Betsy back into the shop and after a quick assessment the mechanic determined that the plate would have to be welded. They removed the tire and the plate and began welding. Taking advantage of the welder, we asked them if they might be able to also fix the clasp that snapped on our jerry can holder. We fully expected to go the rest of the trip without the holder, leaving the jerry cans in the car. However, after searching for properly sized wire, they were able to weld a new clasp into place. It is somewhat unbelievable, when compared to western vehicle maintenance fees, that we ended up paying $20 to re-seal, and re-fill, the differential, fix/weld two disc brake covers, weld a new jerry can clasp into place and get the car cleaned. We actually paid them more than they asked for, which prompted one of the workers to comment, “It’s like Christmas today”.
We drove out of Tukuyu and passed through the Tanzania/Malawi border less than one hour later. Once again we found the border to be fairly efficient. We also exchanged money at the border crossing and found that the highest bank note in Malawi is the 500 Kwacha, which is equivalent to $3. This unfortunately forces you to have a carry a thick wad of cash wherever you go.
We had heard from other travelers that Malawi, despite its poverty, has some of the nicest people in Africa. This was evident within only one hour of crossing the border. As we traveled through the northern villages everyone would wave and smile. If we stopped to ask for directions people were always extremely helpful. Even the street kids selling random trinkets, who are usually very aggressive, were very nice. Malawi’s main attraction is Lake Malawi, the third largest lake in Africa, and it spans most the north-south avis of the country. We are planning on staying two or three nights on the lake, but decided to drive into the mountains today to see Dr. Livingston’s Malawi mission in Livingstonia. After driving for an hour along the lake we turned right and began climbing steeply, using forty switchbacks before getting to the top of the mountains. While driving up we passed three people that were struggling to walk to the top and we gave them a ride. Unfortunately, I didn’t notice that one of the men was carrying an entire string of fresh fish. We dropped them just outside of Livingstonia only twenty minutes later, but the smell lasted for a few more days (you can see a few of the fish in the bottom right hand corner of the picture).
We toured around Livingstonia for only thirty minutes. The mission has a beautiful setting, perched on top of the mountains (originally to protect against malaria). It is now used as a museum and a technical school. On our way back down the mountain we passed two bicyclists, a Brazilian and an Italian. It was hot and they were in urgent need of water, which we promptly supplied. The Brazilian had been biking for 2 years and had begun his journey in Cape Town…Crazy.
We arrived in Nkatha Bay a few hours later and were relieved to see that the hostel was outstanding. While it has no sand beach, it is situated on the steep cliffs overlooking the lake. We confirmed that we could camp in their parking lot and then enjoyed a Burrito dinner, a few beers, and a good sleep.
No comments:
Post a Comment