Goma (DR Congo) - August 3rd

;August 3rd, 2008:

Short: Lakeside breakfast, Meet Peche and Kanga, Rwanda-Congo border Shenanigans, Tour Goma, Hello UN!, Photos with Congolese soldiers, Relax at Hotel Paradis

Long: Over the past week both Nikolai and I have had numerous discussions with people regarding the current security situation in the Democratic Republic of Congo. The U.S. and German travel warnings clearly advise travelers to steer clear of Northern Lake Kivu and Eastern Congo, as some of the areas are controlled by Congolese rebels and remain lawless. However, as we have found in other countries, these reports, rightfully so, err on the side of caution. In doing so, the reports tend to make sweeping generalizations of the real security situation. After years of war, Goma, a large lakeside city on the border of Rwanda in eastern Congo is currently home to almost one thousand United Nations soldiers, as well as a large number of NGO’s. While travel advisories warn against eastern Congo, Goma is, in reality, considered safe, and is even beginning to see a slow resurgence in tourism.

Yesterday we coordinated with the manager of our hotel to arrange for a local Congolese driver to show us around Goma, which is just on the other side of the border to Gisenyi. We met Peche, our guide, and Kanga, our driver, at 9am this morning. After a short drive to the border, we cleared Rwandan immigration, and walked across into DR Congo. We knew we could get a visa at the border, but were surprised when we were led to a backroom office and told that we needed to get the visa in advance. The agent informed us that border visas are only issued under rare circumstances. After informing us of our misfortune, he led us to an immigration officer that then proceeded to complete all of our paperwork and issue us our visas. Hmm…We are still as confused as you are.

Once across the border we received our first good look at Goma. As our guidebook noted, Goma is a modern day Pompeii. As if poverty and continuous warring were not enough, in 2002 the nearby Nyiragongo volcano erupted, and the subsequent lava flows destroyed large portions of the city. We spent most of the day driving across Goma visiting one lava flow after another. As can be seen in the pictures, the cities’ residents have rebuilt, and continue rebuilding, directly on top of the solidified flows. The black volcanic rock creates an odd looking moonscape, with home after home built loosely on top.

On our way to the first lava flow, we passed the airport, portions of which are currently being used as a base for United Nation soldiers. The UN has a strong presence here, and we rarely drove far before seeing a UN marked vehicle, or troop transport. Our guide also pointed out that Goma is home to quite a few large refugee camps, some of which are still growing due to continued violence in the countryside. As can be seen in the picture, apparently guns are not allowed in the refugee camps. It was also evident to us that Goma is home to an unbelievable number of children. As we drove through the villages we felt as if the children out numbered the adults five to one…We can’t confirm the real number.

We stopped at a second lava flow, and as I went to take a picture I heard someone yelling behind me. A Congolese soldier had come from a nearby radio post and was telling us we could not take a photo. A somewhat tense discussion then began between our local guide and the soldier. It is amazing, though, what a smile and a friendly “Bonjour” (Congo is French-speaking) can do. After shaking hands, and laughing about not being able to take a photo, the soldier began to reconsider….for a fee of course. Two dollars, and a few minutes, later three of the five soldiers from the post were posing with us in front of the second lava flow. As can be seen in the photo, each soldier is equipped with the ubiquitous AK-47, a staple of any African security guard or soldier. The weapon is so popular it can even by found on Mozambique’s flag.

Shortly after our photo-opt with the Congolese soldiers we drove to a nearby volcanic lake and took some pictures. While standing around the lake a Congolese soldier, alone this time, came over and began harassing us. We are pretty sure he wanted money, but we quickly left the area. We chose not to drive into Congo for this very reason. We had been told numerous times that foreign drivers can be drained of cash by corrupt Congolese soldiers. Apparently foreigners on foot fare much better. Next, we headed to the Lakefront, but our driver had difficulty finding a road good enough to drive on. After the driver bottomed out the car, we decided it was best to walk, and continued to the lakeshore on foot. The entire lake front is an odd combination of trash and lava rocks, interspersed with brand new, large, heavily fortified, homes. We found the entire city odd. It is a melting pot of abysmally poor Congolese, UN soldiers, and NGO workers against a backdrop of destroyed, or crumbling, infrastructure and new homes. The lava flows just add to the already chaotic scene. Perhaps fittingly, DR Congo was the setting for Joseph Conrad’s book, Heart of Darkness (Or Apocalypse Now…for the move lovers out there). We can't be too harsh though, with a little more stability Goma could thrive. The area is beautiful combination of lakes, grasslands, jungles, and volcanoes. Crossing back over the border in the afternoon we met a Spanish couple that had just completed a two day hike up one of the nearby volcanoes and they had a wonderful time.


At lunch, we bought Peche and Kanga a beer and thanked them for the tour of their city. Shortly after lunch we passed back through immigration and into Rwanda. At the hotel we bid farewell to Pecha and Kanga and just lounged around the hotel for the rest of the day. Unfortunately our hotel was fully booked for the night, but the hotel’s manager kindly agreed to let us pitch out tent in the parking lot. We were both asleep by ten.


NOTE:

Nikolai and I came to the realization today that we fly out of Cape Town in only 18 days. This leaves us only a little under three weeks to drive all the way back down to South Africa. The next few days we are going to do our best to plow through Rwanda and Tanzania quickly, leaving time to spend in Malawi and Mozambique. We do not expect to have an internet connection for the next few days, but will do our best to update the blog soon!